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NEWSLETTER #31B -
DECEMBER 2004
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Leland Fly Fishing Travel Newsletter - December ’04
(B)
TOPICS IN THIS
ISSUE:
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BUSH STREET
“DESTINATION DAY” Thursday, 12/16 – Lani Waller
in shop with his new book, River of Dreams
-
THE BELIZE
NEWSLETTER :
-
PRIVATE ISLANDS
FOR COUPLES, FAMILY AND CORPORATE EXPERIENCES
-
WHY I SPEND SO
MUCH TIME FLY FISHING BELIZE?
-
FANTASY FISH -
ADD THIS TO YOUR SALT WATER “MUST EXPERIENCE”
LIST
This is the
thirty-second edition of our monthly newsletter with
updates on great fly fishing venues and insights for
our traveling fly fishers. We want to help you
match the right location with your fly fishing goals
and objectives and properly prepare you to fully
enjoy the experience. We’ve been to most locations
and pride ourselves on our ability to research new
sites. One of our services is to compare and
contrast different lodges/outfitters. Whatever
unbiased information on timing and locations we can
provide comes at the same cost to you as booking
direct – i.e., no extra cost.
BUSH STREET SHOP DESTINATION DAY, THURSDAY, DEC 16 –
LANI WALLER WILL BE IN SHOP PERSONALIZING HIS NEW
BOOK
Thursday, Nov 16,
has been designated as our monthly Destination Day
in the Bush Street Shop. I’ll be in the shop from
11:00am through the evening. Famous steelheader
and globe hopping fly rodder, Lani Waller, will also
be in the shop from 11:00am throughout the afternoon
with his new book, River of Dreams. Lani will be
personalizing his book for purchasers and answering
questions about his world-wide experiences.
The scheduled slide
presentations will be 12:30 and 5:00 and feature one
of the most productive early season options in the
US – the North Platte Lodge. For the last four
years, we have been sending clients who want a great
early season US trout experience here and the
feedback we’ve received has been very positive.
This year, we are holding some space at North Platte
for this early season period. Openings still exist
for these time frames:
3/17 - 21 (3 days
fish)
3/21 - 26 (Easter
Special $200 discount - 4 day fish)
3/28 - 4/1 (3 day
fish)
4/1 - 6 (4 day fish)
4/10 - 14 (3 day
fish)
Prices - 3 day fish,
1125pp based on double occupancy and shared guide
4 day
fish, 1500 - Easter Special week, 1300
Personal slide
presentations by appointment can be scheduled on any
of our destinations. Let me know if you’d like to
make an appointment and what destination you’d like
me to be prepared for. Drop in and say “hi” and
let’s discuss the exciting possibilities of fly
fishing travel.
BELIZE REPORT – PRIVATE ISLANDS FOR COUPLES, FAMILY
AND CORPORATE EXPERIENCES
Two different
private islands, two different experiences, yet a
lot in common. That’s how I would describe our time
on our recent Belize trip at Cayo Espanto and Caye
Chapel. What both islands had in common:
-
privately owned
with no real estate development ambitions
-
both upscale
with outstanding food, service, etc
-
both had
bonefishing available wading from the island
-
a short hop
north via small plane from Belize City
-
both reside in
spectacular marine environments, inside the
second largest barrier reef in the world, which
runs the entire length of Belize
-
Snorkeling or
diving can be arranged from either location;
also, sea kayaks and other water sport options
available
CAYO
ESPANTO
Four acres with only
5 air-conditioned accommodations including two – two
bedroom villas, two – one bedroom villas, and one
studio unit. Structures constructed so they can be
virtually open air and can also be closed down with
accordion style walls. Each building is isolated
and has it’s own private dock. Level of service is
outstanding – a “houseman” comes with each rental.
The houseman arrives at your beck and call to take
drink orders, menu discussion for meals, or for any
need you have. He carries a two way radio that
communicates directly with the radio he leaves in
your beachfront home. Food was fabulous. My wife
called Cayo Espanto a “10” on the scale of romantic
spots we’ve been (many of you know what a romantic
guy I am!!). Fly fishing guide can be booked from
Ambergris Caye to fish the waters in the vicinity by
the half day or full day – not Belize’s best
fishing, but can be good. The masseuse sets up the
table on your dock, in your bedroom, wherever you
want. Literally, I could grab my fly rod and walk
out the back door onto the shallow flat that
surrounds the island in pursuit of bonefish…..and
find fish most times (guide not necessary). Price:
range of $995 to $1,650 per night plus tax and
gratuities, depending on the size of your villa.
Includes everything (not the masseuse or guide),
even drinks of your choice. A personal, private,
and pampered experience – if you choose, no need to
leave your villa for the entire stay – everything
will be catered in. (see Erin and Glenn Prichett’s
report in the Nov newsletter or ask me for a copy).
CAYE
CHAPEL
Over two-hundred
acres that includes a championship 18 hole golf
course – probably the only golf course within
hundreds of miles in any direction. Nine
spectacular air-conditioned beachfront, Florida
style, two and three bedroom villas. Alternatively,
eight smaller casitas, which are similar to a large
motel room. Most meals are taken in the central
clubhouse, but can be catered. Transportation
supplied by golf cart. Caye Chapel is only a 20
minute boat ride via flats skiff from some of my
favorite fishing areas in Belize and guiding can be
arranged. Also, many of the lakes on the golf
course have been stocked with snook (can’t verify
how many fish available). Unlimited golf is $50 per
day. Villas rent for $1,000 per night for four
persons with 5 night minimum. Casitas are $300 per
night per couple, three night minimum. Meal package
per person is $75 per day and includes villa snacks,
sodas, and bottled water. The barrier reef is
directly off the beach and can be viewed from the
veranda’s at the villas. Conference rooms available
for corporate functions.
ADDITIONAL INFO:
I will have my slides from our trip with me when
I’m in the shop Thursday or personal presentations
can be arranged.
ABOUT BELIZE:
Small country located just south of the Mexican
Yucatan – population of 250,000. Only English
speaking country in Central America. A two hour
flight from Houston or Dallas. We board an American
or Continental flight at 6:30am in San Francisco,
connect through Houston or Dallas, and arrive the
same day in Belize City by mid-afternoon.
WHY I SPEND SO MUCH TIME FLY FISHING BELIZE?
More specifically,
this is about why I keep returning to the Belize
mothership trip with either Captain Martin McCord or
Charles Westby. I have fished several different
areas in Belize from lodges where I don’t plan on
returning so this “why I do this” article needs to
be qualifed. Why have we spent so much time
annually since 1986 fishing with McCord and Westby
from their Belize motherships? There must be some
reasons to keep us going back. Here’s our reasons:
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Personal
experience shared only with whoever you brought
with you and your crew, who are very experienced
at respecting your privacy. This is not a party
boat type affair – the Seaduction only takes two
people and the Meca can handle a maximum party
of three or four.
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Long days on the
water with great guides who love to fish –
usually start at 6:00am and quit at or after
dark, with a short break after lunch. No “8
hour clock watchers” for guides.
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No long boat
runs – you’re literally living where you fish
and you can move your “home.”
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Accommodations
are clean, comfortable, air conditioned and,
with rare exception, “bug free.”
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Food is “good to
great” – all fresh and prepared on board by the
cook who has basically all day to prepare the
meals.
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Control –
schedule for meals, fishing, sleeping, etc is
whatever you want it to be with some general
guidelines if you want to max out the fishing
time. Areas you fish and species you pursue are
a joint decision with you and your
captain/guide.
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Logistics – for
international travel, about as easy as it gets.
Board a plane in SF at 630 am, make one
connection in Houston or Dallas and land in
Belize City about 3:00pm that afternoon. The
captain meets you as you clear customs and 20
minutes later you’re on the boat.
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Bonefish are a
“filler,” not the main menu. It’s nice to have
bonefish available if the primary species aren’t
cooperating; but, for experienced salt water
guys, they are a secondary species on this
trip. Ten and twenty bonefish days can be had,
however, hardly anyone spends the time necessary
fishing for them to add up the numbers. For
newcomers to salt water fly fishing, the shallow
bonefish flats make spotting fish as easy as it
gets.
-
Finest permit
fishing in the world and maybe the best
year-round tarpon fishery. Each day on our
recent December trip we saw 60 – 100 pound
tarpon. These are resident fish, not the
migratory variety which only show up during one
or two months a year.
-
Variety of fish
and fishing environments – on more than half of
the days of our recent trip, I did all of the
following in the SAME DAY: cast to tailing
bonefish, cast to big rolling tarpon, cast to
permit on shallow flats, fished mangrove edges
for snook and baby tarpon, sight fished baby
tarpon and some of the big boys.
-
Didn’t use my
comb or wrist watch for the entire trip (with my
remaining hair, a comb is not a big factor).
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As casual as it
can be - no one to impress and who cares what
you wear? It’s entirely up to you how casual
you want to be.
-
Until the fifth
day of our recent trip, I did not see another
fisherman!!!! One that day, a guide made the 90
minute boat run from Ambergris Cay to fish the
area we were in and they were within sight for
about 5 minutes.
-
It’s a cool
adventure living for a week on the sheltered
waters inside the second largest barrier reef in
the world with McCord and Westby.
-
Value – there’s
not a better value in the world of saltwater fly
fishing. The Meca charters for $8,800 for a
group of four and the Seaduction $5,800 for
two. Those prices are virtually all-inclusive
except for personal beverages and tips.
POTENTIAL DOWNSIDES
Weather – like most
“world class” fisheries, weather can be a factor.
It’s the tropics and it’s always changing. We were
lucky on our recent trip to avoid any cold fronts
which can affect Dec, Jan, Feb, and sometimes March
trips. We had two days with very light winds, one
day of heavy overcast and occasional rain (still was
80+ degrees), and three days of moderate to heavy
winds.
Sight fishing – the
overall experience of sight fishing to trophy fish
is not a numbers game. An angler must be into the
excitement of the hunt to appreciate this type of
fly fishing.
Challenging casting
– for our first several trips, we traveled to Belize
with a bonefish fly rod and several spinning rods
because we didn’t have the fly casting skills to
deal with all the different situations which present
themselves on this trip. Eventually, we developed
the skills necessary to throw away the spinning
rods.
Don’t like living on
a boat for a week? Obviously, this could be a
factor, although many people each year learn for the
first time that this is a very private and
comfortable overall experience.
Getting space – due
to the large percentage of repeat clients, getting
space on the Meca or Seaduction is difficult.
Currently, there is one week open in each Feb, July,
and Aug. Fall is still wide open.
Leland hosted trip
August 9 – 16 still has space. Bush Street shop
manager, Keith Westra, will once again be leading a
group of six on a trip chartering both boats.
VIDEO AND DVD AVAILABLE:
We have a free video
or DVD available on the Belize mothership trip. Let
me know if you’d like a copy.
FANTASY STUFF - ADD THIS TO YOUR SALT WATER “MUST
EXPERIENCE” LIST
It was a beautiful
tropical evening and the sun was just getting ready
to disappear below the horizon on the third day of
our recent Belize trip. We were poling along a
glassy, sheltered mangrove edge and I was casting my
fly as close as possible to the branches (and far
too often, into the mangroves). Snook had been the
primary focus of this trip as it occurred during
their spawning period and the numbers of fish in
many mangrove areas were stronger than any other
time of the year. On this particular cast, the fly
dropped right on the edge and as I gave it a strip,
a large snook darted out and grabbed it. I struck
the fish hard, stunning him momentarily and,
capitalizing on the momentum of his aggressive
charge, pulled him away from the tangled root system
which could have ended the battle quickly. My
experienced guide immediately began moving the skiff
away from the shoreline. This all happened in a
heart beat and the fish was momentarily disoriented
and began swimming into open water, away from the
security of the mangroves. For a few minutes, we
were safe as the fish appeared to wonder aimlessly.
The guide was the first to note a change of demeanor
and yelled, “get ready, he’s going home.” Go’in
home he was and in a hurry – the fish had turned,
and realizing he needed to find the security of the
mangroves, had started a full out charge for the
roots. Quickly, I took up the slack line and put a
few wraps around my gloved hand. Experience had
taught me that the moment of truth was coming – if
he gained the sanctuary of the mangrove roots, he
was free. I braced myself as the line tightened and
my 9 wt rod bent to the pressure. The next few
minutes were as intense as it gets. He had regained
the brink and was only a yard from freedom. He
repeatedly lunged for that yard, sometimes taking to
the air with powerful head shakes, sending sunset
enhanced spray in all directions. I held tight
with all the strength I could muster, not giving an
inch and hoping my five-foot, 40 pound leader
section would hold and the rod didn’t shatter. If
you have fly fished for stripers, this struggle
compares to trying to hold a fresh, powerful 10
pound striper in one place when he had other designs
– both fish have a similar “bulldog” mentality.
After what seemed like ten minutes, but was probably
only two or three, he relented and allowed me to
drag him from the edge. A few more weakened
charges were all he had left before we put him on
the scale, took the requisite photos, revived him,
and watched him disappear under the overhanging
branches. A shade under ten pounds was the weight
and fifty pounds of thrills!! This was a special
fish for more reasons than one – he completed my
grand slam for the day adding some treasured
memories to my salt water fly fishing collection.
This was the second largest snook we took for the
week – a 12 pounder was taken on the open flats and
didn’t supply the drama of the “mangrove mauler.”
The sensation of
stalking a medium to large permit or watching a
tarpon cartwheel across the surface is well known,
but a good-sized snook on the edge of the roots
provides a seldom recognized experience that is very
special.
LELAND-FRONTIERS AGENT AGREEMENT
In addition to the
many great destinations that we represent, Leland
Fly Fishing Adventures also has an agreement with
Frontiers to represent all their properties (many of
which we already book independently). If you are
considering any of the destinations that Frontiers
offers, please give us a call as it’s virtually the
same process as booking through Frontiers, and we
need the “bonus points.” And, we may have some
personal experiences that can add to your knowledge
and preparations.
Either phone or drop
us an e-mail if you have questions or would like
more information about any of our destinations.
An enthusiastic
traveling fly fisherman,
Don Muelrath
Leland Fly Fishing
Adventures
888-347-4896
flyfish@napanet.net
www.flyfishingoutfitters.com
e-mail Josh Frazier
at
Josh@flyfishingoutfitters.com
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